We have both agreed on a final list of seeds that have made it through to this years polytunnel bootcamp where each plant will have the chance to perform and prove its worth. I wonder which of our selections will be the Leon or Leona of harvest 2008. This is the horticultural version of X-Factor , or should it be F1-Factor!
Armed with 'the list' I have mapped out the polytunnel using a very basic method ... one of my average sized steps is equal to 3cm on my diagram. And so, taking into account my notes of where everything grew this season, and looking at my video clip of the tunnel in mid summer to remind myself about areas I had already forgotten, I have planned where I will plant everything. At first glance it all looks totally random, but no, there is method there, honest!
First of all I look at the aspect ie where north, south, east and west lie. Tall plants I put along the northern end of the tunnel. This is so that they will not shade out other smaller plants during the long summer days as the dawn sun first enters the tunnel from the west, then full glaze from the south, and by evening it moves around to shine from the east. By then the shading won't matter so much, the smaller plants will already have had a good day long dose.
I also take into account what plants were growing where this season and do my best to rotate so that the three plant types aren't grown in the same plot two seasons in a row, and aim to give three years before that 'group' returns to a bed (roots, brassicas and others). This gives the soil a 'rest' from the particular nutritional demands of each plant group, preventing depletion of certain nutrients and trace elements. Any good gardening book gives examples of plot rotation but this is the one on my shelf.
I also refer to my notes to see if I need to plant more or less of any crop for next season and use that information to measure out the revised plot sizes. Consider whether you and your neighbours were sick of the sight of courgettes (probably!) or craving for more sugar snap peas?! For example last year I grew 'one step' of pea plants, this year I want to grow a little more to meat our families demands, so the bed will increase to one and a half steps wide.
If theres still room for maneuver I put plants I harvest on a daily basis, such as salad leaves and herbs, closer to the entrance. There are also parts of the tunnel that are watered overhead, others watered by seep hose, and patches within that arrangement that I've noticed that are particularly dry or wet. Again I use these features to decide where to put which plants. For example the tomatoes, peppers, chilli, aubergine and courgettes all go in seep hose zones because damp leaves for these plants leads to problems with mildew or leaf burn, whereas salad leaves, carrots and most herbs seem to enjoy the sprinkler.
Everything that is permanent has been drawn in ink ie the structure and raised beds. I have a copy of it now so next year I can just print off a blank and start again. I draw in the various crops with pencil so I can move it all around and cater for mid season changes ... I'm expecting that for some reason or another I won't be able to stick entirely to the plan ... say for example two weeks of kids with chicken pox, or a pig gets in and roots up a bed, or I just forget we have a polytunnel for a while because I get sidetracked and a tray or two of seedlings shrivel up and die, or the dog chooses to lie on the salad leaves. You may have guessed that most of these scenarios are more than mere meanderings of my imagination.
The artichokes are perennials (ie they grow year after year), as will be the planned vine. There will be flowers planted among the beds, including borage, pot and french marigold, and sweet pea. The latter is actually still flowering well in the tunnel now which is a wonderful surprise. Some new crops we intend to add this year include strawberry and melon, and Dan is very keen to have a go at asparagus ... yes he is very patient ... it takes 3 years to get a crop! I daren't grow it myself because I could just imagine how furious I'd be at some toddler who may come along on the 4th year and yank the whole lot out for fun!
Woot! Woot! Physalis alert! Don't do it - they get WAY too big...
Posted by: hedgewizard | December 19, 2007 at 08:55 PM
I would love to use a greenhouse-type structure to increase the growing seasons. Maybe one day..... Happy holidays!
Posted by: debra | December 21, 2007 at 04:57 AM
...the dawn sun enters your tunnel from the west, and by evening it moves around to shine from the east?? Could it be like that thing about the water going down the plughole - the opposite in the Northern hemisphere to what we have down under? 8-)
Christmas wishes from Western Australia where it is forecast to be 38 degrees on Christmas Day. I've spent a few Christmases in Sligo (where my husband is from) and kind of miss the cold and early dark nights.
Cheers
Warpgirl
Posted by: warpgirl | December 21, 2007 at 10:41 AM
Your planning looks very thorough, and thank you for teaching me something new - I did not know that artichokes were perennial, I just assumed that they were biennials, but this knowledge makes planting them much more appealing for me.
Re the asparagus - you can buy 1 year old crowns from the HDRA in the UK, so you can shave off a bit of that waiting time for your first harvest.
If you have the space for it (outdoors) try planting some hops as well - the young shoots that emerge in the spring can be eaten just like asparagus and taste similar too.
Posted by: Robert | December 26, 2007 at 11:22 AM
Artichokes can be left to grow on for years which was my mothers approach and she still had enough heads to give away every year. If you read the gardening books they advise replacing plants every four years or so. I'll be watching mine to see how they go but I've a feeling I won't be changing them every 4 years!
Our soil is heavy wet clay, which artichokes detest. I'll be working on improving the artichoke bed with the addition of sand and manure. I hope they don't object to being dug up and replanted.
Posted by: Rebecca (author of Sallygardens) | December 30, 2007 at 11:05 AM
Can't get a really good image of your plan on my screen. What size is your polytunnel and how wide do you have your paths?
Posted by: Charles | January 06, 2008 at 01:32 PM
Hi Charles
Our tunnel is 40ft x 21ft and the paths are roughly just over a foot, thats just wide enough to have my feet in them standing sideways ... which you will do a lot when tending the beds ... also allow for your wheelbarrow to get down the paths for manure spreading in winter.
Charles did you leave a question about this on the sallygardens forum? I have posted an answer there with a little more detail.
All the best, Rebecca
Posted by: Rebecca (smallholding in Ireland) | January 06, 2008 at 02:11 PM
i have just added a tiny 3x2m polytunnel to augment a fairly decent sized veggie patch, but am now struggling to know where to start. What is best to put in now? If you added the month you start planting each on your plan i could crib from you!!
Posted by: jo nicholl | January 04, 2009 at 09:01 PM
Hi Jo, depends what part of the world you are in? In these parts we start planting most things in March and April. This time of year I could plant broad beans, but I prefer to wait a bit longer. Good luck with the new 'extension'.
Posted by: Rebecca (Sallygardens Smallholding author) | January 04, 2009 at 09:16 PM